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another shoes question

10:20:32 PM
so would you say that smearing is more dependant on flexibility rather than rubber type?

I think I remember reading somewhere about shoes that are starting to run a mix of stiff rubber around the rand and flexible stuff on sole or something along those lines. Anyone know the ones I'm talking about or given them a try?

9:18:42 AM
Mad Rock shoes have that mixed hard soft rubber you are talking about. I havn't tried them though....

11:11:59 AM
On 31/05/2004 BJ2 wrote:
>so would you say that smearing is more dependant on flexibility rather
>than rubber type?
i'd say it would be. it would be hard to smear with a stiffer edging shoe. you'd get less rubber squishing onto the rock. and as said above a shoe thats great for smearing can often 'roll' off small edges.

11:54:10 AM
On 31/05/2004 BJ2 wrote:
>I think I remember reading somewhere about shoes that are starting to
>run a mix of stiff rubber around the rand and flexible stuff on sole or
>something along those lines. Anyone know the ones I'm talking about or
>given them a try?

The Mad Rock shoes have this. I've got a pair of Mad Rock Mugens:

The shoes edge and smear well. But I don't think the whole hard/soft thing really makes a difference - seems to me more like just a gimmick! But they're good shoes, especially for the price.
1:15:05 PM
Climbing magazine have a shoe review on at the moment:

Rock Weasel
1:53:23 PM
Why is it assumed that trad climbers want relaxed designs which emphasize comfort? I prefer a good technical shoe, even if I do have to tear it off in agony after every pitch. I have used Saltic Spirits (excellent beginners shoe), La Sportiva Cobras (not bad, stretched alot and are good for the gym) and La Sportiva Miuras (nice hard edge, not as good as Cobras for smearing). I think my next shoe will be the La Sportiva Venom; as it combines the fit of an unlined slipper with the last of the Miura (recent reviews have been very good).
3:43:49 PM
Rock weasel, at the risk of being called pedantic, aren't the venoms based on the testarossa last?
11:13:41 AM
Hi Rock Weasel,

I suppose I assume comfort is important in a trad climbing shoe, because I'm so darn slow at tradding! In other words, I'm wearing the shoes for a fair amount of time before I get the opportunity to tear them off at the belay station :-)


Rock Weasel
3:16:11 PM
Right you are, Duncan. The Venom is based on the Testarossa last, not that of the Miura.

Being a fairly slow climber, I have experienced the frenzied ripping off of shoes at the belay of a trad climb, and I've seen others actually remove their shoes if they have a decent rest. I just find it annoyingly pejorative to assume that all trad climbers want less capable shoes. If my feet have to be in agony for a while, then so be it, even if that 'a while' turns into an hour.

3:22:15 PM
i think i may have to put in a ggod word for the slightly cheaper options..
such as LaSportiva Cliff blue
some of the cheapest shoes around, basicaly an alrounder shoe.
smear quite nicely(dependign of course on how think the rubber is)
also stiff enough to still edge well, probably the may downfall is that the toe is fairly wide adn thus great for small pockets.
but they are still very comfortable, adn if they fir well there isnt any need to tie them up (i dotn realy tie them up anymore unless im on multipitch or climbing above 19)
3:38:01 PM
Hi Weasel,

The beauty of it is that you can have both - in other words, a shoe that performs, and is also comfortable. There are a few on the market that offer these two key features.

2:59:32 AM
Ok dudes, I've been away at a conference, and am indeed here to give my opinions on my favourite subject - shoes. I am the Imelda of the climbing world - although sadle, since my move to the states, I have whittled my 18 pairs doen to an annorexic eight. I have different shoes for different things. My categories are:

1. bumbly shoes - when you are on something that is easy for you, or where shoes wont make a difference (Two pairs - 5-10 diamonds that are really shit and really old 5-10 huecos that were good once )

2. gym shoes - that i never wear outdoors - are always old shoes that have had a few resoles. I dont wear good shoes in the gym as the gym is for strength training (one cant learn technique in the gym ) and if i cant really stand on my feet in the disgusting shoes i have for the gym then I will be forced to get really strong. This is a theory - the really strong hasn't eventuated yet. (2 pairs - really old 5-10 anasazi lace ups and my old 5-10 huecos or diamonds)

3. trad shoes - shoes that are comfy still after 4 hours, which is about how long it takes me to lead anything on gear. If I cant feel my feet after 2 minutes then i will cry, fail, and probably die as a result. (5-10 huecos or diamonds ).

4. crack soes - stiff, and padded, need to be comfy too, as cracks are usually naturally protected. (1 pair - la sportiva mura)

5. vertical face climbing sport shoes - be able to edge, and smear occasionally. Really tight. (2 pairs - 5-10 anasazi lace ups)

6. Bouldering shoes - easy on/off, nice sticky well-fitting heel. (2 pairs). (mad rock hooker lace ups and old 5-10 anasazi lace ups)

7. Red pointing sport climbs that are very hard for me - well fitting shoes - very very tight. (1 pair) (5-10 T-rocks wayy to small for me)

If I am ever seen on a roof, the shoes are not the limiting factor. see bumbly shoes.


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