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Self equalising anchor 30-Jul-2008 At 12:59:14 AM foreverabumbly

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Also, tests where done on an cordelette which measured the distribution of force along each of its arms. A three armed cordelette placed in a vertical crack with the
longest arm 3 feet long
middle arm 2 feet long
shortest arm 1 foot long

showed that the shortest arm took 55% of the load, the middle arm took 27% of the load and the longest 18%. It showed that nylon and sling material cordelettes showed better results as these are more stretchier.

Also as said above, if the load moves of the axis, or centre point, of the rigging then it is completly possible for only one arm to be loaded, something that wont happen to a self equalising set up.

Basically the tests showed that the chordelette had no chance of equalising properly, and recommended that it only be used if the arms were on the same plane and of equal length.

It should also be noted that all this is talking about extremes, the reason that you have rarely if ever heard of a chordelette failing is that climbers are never really subjected to a factor 2 fall. And that anchors are never really subjected to their maximum capacity in normal climbing. I still use chordelettes, but I like researching and knowing their strenghts and weaknesses so I have a more informed idea when I come across a different belay point.

*John Long also helped design a system called a Equalette, which was also called a webolette which is basically a sliding x combined with a chordelette. and allows for a system that self equalises, has minimal extention and can have multiple arms.