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Poll Option

Votes

Graph

Stitch Plate

ATC (Tube Style)

20%

ATC (With V slots like the BD-XP or WC VC-PRO

32%

Petzl Reverso

20%

Faders Sum

Edelrid Eddy

Trango Cinch

Petzl Gri Gri

15%

Author

Belay Devices

wyt91t

1-Oct-2007
3:07:44 AM

Well to put it simple this is a poll to see what type of device people prefer to use not only outdoors but in gyms aswell. Also put into account what you prefer to be belayed on.


skink

1-Oct-2007
8:15:52 AM

Too simplistic. My preferences:

Outdoor with skinny 8.6mm double ropes - ATC-XP
Outdoor with 9.6mm single rope - ATC-XP or Grigri if leader is working a route
Indoor - not bothered, use my ATC-XP generally, or grigri provided at the wall

but based on the above - vote is ATC-XP

mr milk

1-Oct-2007
9:51:08 AM

After i've sold a local grommit a 9mm half rope and skimmed a few percent off the shop for myself, I like to watch them grow fatter and fatter until burnt hands result. It doesn't matter if they deck, because the floor in gyms is padded, right?


nmonteith

1-Oct-2007
10:01:35 AM

Black Diamond ATC Guide (Autoblock) for trad, multipitch and double rope raps.

Edelrid Eddy for single pitch sport and trad.

gfdonc

1-Oct-2007
10:47:27 AM

Migrated from my Sticht plate (double 9mm but would take ropes to 10.5) to a BD XP Guide a few months back.

I've very happy with the XPG although I reckon overall performance (braking, feeding) is similar to the Sticht. Yes it may be an old design but it still works!
The XPG has a major advantage, though - no spring to get caught on things.

If I had my time again I'd settle for the XP Pro as I don't think I'll ever use the autoblock feature and the Pro would be lighter and smaller.


muki

1-Oct-2007
10:48:37 AM

Black Diamond Guide for Rapping double/single skinny ropes, and guiding, belaying thin trad.
Gri Gri for Solo aid, and belays that have haul potential, partners who want to work the route ie:dogging,
and bolting/repair work.
BD guide :30%
Gri Gri :70%


nmonteith

1-Oct-2007
10:59:42 AM

I'm the same as bomber - regards ratio and use.


Macciza

1-Oct-2007
11:03:16 AM

You left out a few of my faves
Figure Eight - 3 different belay speeds
Munter Hitch - Bottom or top belay just need a suitable biner
Body Belay - Yeah some of us still use it sometimes . . .

PS The 'Reverso' idea was ripped off from Kong - who make better stuff than Petzl anyway . . .


dougal

1-Oct-2007
2:20:18 PM

ATC guide 80% (100% trad)

Gri gri - 20% (top rope, dogging (always my partner, never me))

wyt91t

2-Oct-2007
12:53:41 AM

well the poll didnt let me add more i wanted to though i also forgot to mention if anyone here as ever used a SUM to decend on ropes because i used my mates the other week and shit from only going down on the rope about ten meters it was cause real damage to it.


skink

2-Oct-2007
9:56:27 AM

On 2/10/2007 wyt91t wrote:
>well the poll didnt let me add more i wanted to though i also forgot to
>mention if anyone here as ever used a SUM to decend on ropes because i
>used my mates the other week and shit from only going down on the rope
>about ten meters it was cause real damage to it.

What were you doing wrong?

wyt91t

2-Oct-2007
10:25:52 PM

we were using the sum to acsend and desend on the rope as we took photos of our friends on the climb next to us.

i will make a video of it to show you that we were doing nothing wrong and that Sums kill ropes.


HM33

2-Oct-2007
10:45:17 PM

On 2/10/2007 wyt91t wrote:
> we were doing nothing wrong
>and that Sums kill ropes.

Arithmatic is dangerous man. be careful next time your doing some maths while on the pointy end!

Tris

3-Oct-2007
7:19:52 AM

The Sum is crap for abseiling, I would not reccommend it. But for lead belaying it is the best device out there (in my opinion).

I use the Sum for sport lead belaying and my ATC Guide for everything else.


cruze

3-Oct-2007
8:38:30 AM

Reading these posts I can't help but thinking that a lot of you guys must have half a dozen different belay devices sitting at home most weekends gathering dust. I know that a lot of you guys have been climbing for a while and yet you use the relatively recently released auto-locking double (ATC guide) and single rope devices(sum, cinch, etc.).

Maybe we should start a thread: How many belay devices do you own?

Me personally I migrated from the ATC to the ATC XP to the reverso. Plus have the trusty grigri if dogging on sports routes is going to be involved.


EJ

3-Oct-2007
8:44:11 AM

I'm a big fan of devices like the ATC guide and Reverso. Bought the reverso a couple of years back and was impressed with it, when BD brought out the ATC guide I bought one to see what it was like. I now use it all the time. The V-slots are great with narrow diameter ropes.

Gri-gri's are great for sport-climbing etc. So to break it down:

ATC guide / Reverso : 80%
Gri-gri: 20%

This reflects more on the style of climbing more than anything else. As to what I prefer to be belayed on it doesn't bother me, its more about who is belaying me.

Tris

3-Oct-2007
8:46:10 AM

Lets see:

Fig-8 - Who uses these anymore anyway
Sprung Stitch plate - Stopped using it because it was annoying and grabbed the rope
Variable Controller - So much nicer than the stitch plate, but has no auto block and can't handle thin ropes
ATC-XP - Can handle my half ropes and has auto-block
Faders SUM - Great for belaying single pitch sport climbs

So thats 6.

I think thats all I have, will check again when I get home.

All of these devices are still usable (and I still lend them out to beginners when I have to), it's just I have found other devices better so I buy them.


JBM

3-Oct-2007
9:31:58 AM

Anyone out there use the Simond Toucan?


dougal

3-Oct-2007
11:47:40 AM

Too ugly.


meinmuk

3-Oct-2007
12:58:07 PM

My old VC was fine, but I note that in comparison with my new device that it didn't feed out rope very quickly.

My new(ish) B-52 works well for rapping and for single and double rope autoblocks. For lead belaying, feeding out rope is a charm. I haven't yet had to catch a lead fall on it, but note that when lowering my mate who is ~90kg, that the rope can go through the device pretty fast. I wonder if catching a heavy climber taking a whipper is going to be a problem. Any experience out there?

andy

There are 26 messages in this topic.