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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Topic Date User
What cams to buy ????? 13-Mar-2007 At 6:34:08 PM Rayda
Message
Thanks for that Rod.

And now for something completely different.

I just want to start another discussion on dyneema/spectra (D/S) versus nylon. There seems to be, what I have read, alot of contradiction as to when it is appropriate to use D/S and nylon in anchor systems. What I understand, (an you can call me nieve) but alot is said by climbers in other forums and research on the internet that D/S should be avoided in the use of a belay/toprope anchor systems because 1. compromised knot strength 2.low melting point which if folded/knotted can cause failure 3. shear lack of give ie. very stiff/no dynamic loading

My point is, focusing on point 3. If these climbers say they shouldn't be used them in anchor systems with 3 + pieces of pro, then why would they then use a runner made from it, in use with 1 piece of pro when on lead.

Does anyone else see this glaring contradiction, or am I in a boat of my own?

Also could anyone clarify points 1 and 2.

There are 46 replies to this topic.

 

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