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Topic Date User

#1 & #2 size nuts and RPs. 17-Oct-2006 At 10:47:59 AM Ronny

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On 16/10/2006 -deano- wrote:
>i'd just be careful, and make sure that both of the shit pieces are equally
>as shit as each other. if you had one absolutely pathetic piece, and one
>not-so-good piece; then the pathetic one might fail no matter what, and
>you will shock load the other one and then...

Falling is a 'shock' load (dynamic load, not static). If the crappier piece takes *any* of the speed out of the fall before it blows you'll be putting less force on the other piece when you do load it, so you're better off than you would have been just clipping it alone.

The 'shock' load problem is more to do with loading a 'x-sling' statically (like at a belay) and then having one piece pop, resulting in a dynamic load on the other (as you fall 10cm or so onto it). So if pieces are crap at a belay this isn't a good idea as they may both fail.