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Topic Date User

#1 & #2 size nuts and RPs. 5-Oct-2006 At 8:57:14 PM chalkischeap

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Interesting question, big gear is best of course but my own rules of thumb are:

Wires down to Rock 2 and RP5 100% confidence in a good placement.
Rock 1 and RP3 80%
RP2 60%
RP1 30%
RP0 don’t own, would consider as bodyweight only, rather have a skyhook.

Lots of variables come into play such as placement quality, rock type, body weight, rope type, amount of rope out, dynamic belay etc.

In practice I have found that RP2s and RP1s have held on most occasions. But with only 30% to 60% reliability you want some backup lower down. Climbs that rely fully on these sizes are dangerous and usually have 2 or 3 extra grades added above their physical requirement.