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Topic Date User

SRENE anchors may go the way of the dinosaur 13-Mar-2006 At 8:48:42 PM Andrew_M

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Well, if the RC.com thread stirs people up then manufacturers might make more dynamic cordalette material. At the moment it's easy enough to buy ice floss in the 7-7.5mm range, it's just a bit bloody expensive to chop a new one up for anchor material! How bad is 7mm perlon anyway in terms of 'staticness'? Surely it stretches at least a few percent? 'Static' canyoning and caving ropes stretch a heap and you just don't notice unless you've got a big enough drop, when it becomes really obvious.

I have taken a factor ~2 onto a nylon daisy without gear or bone breakage. I put it down to the small bit of stretch inherent in the nylon...Does anyone have any hard data on this, or even better...Phil are you planning on testing nylon vs spectra cordalettes under identical conditions?

Andrew

On 13/03/2006 anthonyk wrote:
>On 13/03/2006 Phil Box wrote:
>>Don't use static anything in an anchor. The test results so far indicate
>>that the use of nylon climbing rope is preferrable to anything else for
>>anchor building.
>
>thats an interesting comment considering static anchors are very much
>the standard, especially if people are not swinging leads & don't want
>to use the rope as an anchor.
>
>the only available source for a properly dynamic cordelette is to make
>off cuts of an old climbing rope because its not generally available by
>the metre, which makes it impractical for a lot of people. also cordelettes
>are generally chosen in the ~7mm range (6? 8?), which is bulky enough,
>but even so much, much less bulky than using off cuts of most ropes, which
>are commonly 10mm+.
>
>