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Topic Date User

Clipped bolt plate came off carrot bolt 2-Oct-2013 At 10:23:08 AM pecheur

Message

On 1/10/2013 rightarmbad wrote:
>Eggy, most good or bad plate/biner combinations are well known to more
>established climbers.
>You don't need to continually test each one.
>My carrot draws will only come off the smallest of bolt heads and then
>only in very specific orientations.
>Those situations ring alarm bells and you deal with them appropriately.

I agree with this, however how does a newbie get to know these combinations without testing? In my experience PFH 45 degree hangers are the least likely to come off anything, of course they are also a struggle to put on some bolts.

As with what Mikl said, any modern biner, anything marketed as: lightest, streamlined, optimised, smallest etc, is probably going to be bad on carrots.

For carrots I use Positron biners, cheap, solid, and fat enough that in combination with PFH 45s I'd only worry on seriously undersized carrots, ie 8 mm or smaller bolts (which I'm also concerned about holding me in a fall), or ones that stick out too much (which I chuck a wire behind). However due to variations in bolts and roofs you should have the four most common hangers in Oz (PFH 45 and 90, RP 45 and 90), though in Vic mostly I use the PFH 45s, this is probably due to the limited number of 12mm bolts being used as carrots here.