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Topic Date User
How thick could a bolt plate be? 24-Oct-2016 At 10:46:10 AM mikllaw
On 24/10/2016 rightarmbad wrote:
>Do they still do this with a single biner?
>I was wondering if something similar to a rope worn biner would happen
>here, in that as the plate is stretched it would collapse in on the bolt
>shaft and that by putting two biners on you prevent that from happening
>and the head slips through the wider opening?
>What is the failure mechanism with 90 deg plates?
>Has anybody ever seen that sort of failure in the field?
No, because loads above 7 kN are vanishingly rare. But you need to treat boltplates as good trad gear and equalise them on a belay.
>Is this type of failure limited to softer rock that breaks away from around
>the bolt easier and does not support it enough to allow it to bend that
No, most bolts will bend

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