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New UIAA publication regarding SCC bolt failures

egosan

7-Dec-2015
9:13:13 PM

Worth a read. I had not realized the prevalence of the problem. http://www.theuiaa.org/upload_area/Safety/Anchors/UIAA-WARNING-ABOUT-CLIMBING-ANCHORS-FAILURES.pdf

phillipivan

7-Dec-2015
10:17:59 PM

Do you even climb?

E. Wells

8-Dec-2015
5:16:58 AM

Good response!! Next time your in a Karst region take a look at all those terrible 12mm 316 dynas that are rotting and cracking away.. or just make decisions as you go (ie oh this sport route was equipt by americans so the hangers are probably nickelplated mountaindew cans, no thanks)

sliamese

8-Dec-2015
8:18:40 AM

"This means that the bulk of the climbing population needs to start paying for anchors, whereas in the past most had a “free ride” "

I like that idea :)

JamesMc

8-Dec-2015
6:22:22 PM

VCC bolt fund?

Macciza

9-Dec-2015
10:08:57 PM

Very timely, given the recent catastrophic failure of a commercially produced hardware bought stainless steel threaded UBolt at Bluebell in the Sutherland Shire. So I guess you can add Australia now as having a suspected SCC failure . . .

Its possible the mass produced non controlled standard use units are not really suitable for climbing purposes . . . .

Also it is important to note there comments regarding impacts on placement with the takeaway being that if you have to hammer the Ubolt hard to get it placed then you are potentially risking SCC, so don't do it, redial the holes so that only light taps at most are needed .... imho based on the info provided by UIAA...

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