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Carabiner loading 1-Mar-2015 At 7:00:57 PM tooclimb

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thanks for the link
I have looked through some of my books, such as Rope techniques by Bill march, Rock climbing getting started by Glenn Tempest & Mountaineering, Freedom of the Hills I note that all show belays with coaxial loading on Crabs. Are they all in error? So after a bit of research at http://queenslandclimbing.yuku.com/reply/60839/Derating-carabiners-chart#reply-60839 re derating of binners and force factor calculation at http://www.myoan.net/climbart/climbforcecal.html and Leader falls at http://wallrat.com/PDF_Files/forcesinleadfalls.pdf I have concluded this. With my 27kn Kong binner the coaxial loading would be approx. 13kn adequate to support a shock force from a falling climber. Shock force being around 5 to 7kn rarely reaching 9kn. An interesting issue on Robs chart is the strength of two opposing gate crabs, down at 20%. I have a hard time accepting that but I’m no engineer.
Coaxial loading then would seem not so serious after all ...