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Topic Date User
what's the matter with keyhole hangers? 22-Nov-2013 At 5:14:06 PM harold
I don't get the anti keyhole hanger thing either. For overhung, chalked up sport crags, I agree no question. But for vertical or slab routes I don't see the problem.

Surely a 10mm glue in stainless bolt won't droop over full stop, let a lone cut the hanger.
Even skinny biners won't easily come off a bolt with a 17mm head (still has to jiggle to just the right spot). Undersized bolt heads only count as bad bolting. A wire gate has to rotate until it's cross loaded for the hanger to be able to come off, a dangerous situation regardless.
The one and only time I had a draw fall off a bolt was when I dragged my foot past a ring! bolt and it self unclipped. And I'm not the only one who has done that before.
A hanger can fail if it is flipped upside down, sure - just make sure that doesn't happen. That much flailing about will flick out a sinker nut anyway. Likewise, a biner can fail at 7kn cross loaded, or even 2kn if catches and levers between the fixed hanger and nut, or in overly recessed ubolt/ringbolt, or against rock protusion.
On a mixed route a key hole hanger is still more bomber than the most sinker nut placement.

Considering all of the risk factors, using the correct materials and procedures, I only consider a keyhole hanger only very marginally less safe. I'm aware of their weaknesses and am a little more vigilant about how the draw sits and jiggling the rope too much.

Way more things to go wrong to worry about.

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