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Topic Date User

Help with my opposing nuts problem 30-Jan-2013 At 10:10:46 PM frostex

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On 30/01/2013 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>A third possibility (based purely on your schematic representation of
>the situation), is to clip the 'useless for downward load' nut first with
>possibly no sling, ie clip it directly to the rope, then put a long sling
>on the primary piece and clip it below the directional nut. This would
>result in the directional performing it's task and in the event of a fall
>the loose-sling primary nut would still take the load. In this last case
>the distances would have to be carefully judged so that mishap was not
>invited into the scenario(!), unless of course, the long sling from the
>primary nut was simply passed through the krab on the directional nut (not
>clipped to the rope*), rather than clipped or cinched onto it...
>(*This could result indropping of the directional nut & krab in the event of a
>fall unless a retaining loop is added to the mix!)

Thats a really cool idea, ive never thought of that before. I'm going to play around with this at home a little to see exactly how it would work and be created. However in this very specific scenario, i dont think it would have worked as i forgot to mention that the lower nut wouldnt really stay in without cinching it with the top nut. And as soon as 2 crabs are in play, they dont cinch tight enough.

I still feel like the only thing that would have worked well is a sling girth hitched directly onto the bottom nut, despite always been taught not to do that. as i needed the precice length of 1 biner + 5mm, any longer and they could pop out.

In saying all this, the method i used - I just "set" it as hard as i could then attached the longest sling i have on me, did seem to work. I'm just not happy because i feel like it could have been a bomber placement, instead of something i was rather dubious about.