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Topic Date User

Help with my opposing nuts problem 30-Jan-2013 At 9:12:19 PM frostex

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A few weeks ago climbing (I think it was at the youies, i honestly cant remember which day, or crag it was at, let alone the route!) I got stumped and was sitting there for a few minutes trying to work it out.

Horizontal crack, slotted in perfectly and was a bomber placement for downwards/upwards pull, left pull, and forwards (away from the wall) pull. Unfortunately my climb veered a little right of the placement, so i thought no worries ill just stick in something else that's a little to the left simply to stop it popping out from rope drag. The only thing in reach was a vertical crack slotted for upwards and left/right pull. Slot it in, then usually i would either do a sliding X, or 1 or 2 clove hitches to keep everything tensioned where it needs to be. This is where it became a problem -

The wires were about 5mm too far apart to clip with 1 carabiner, and if i used 2 carabiners there was too much play room to keep the top nut in place. In the end, i "set" them as hard as i could, and just put a long sling through to the quick draw but i still wasnt happy. In hindsight i think i could have clove hitched them with the sling directly on the bottom wire (no biner), as it was only necessary to keep left tension against rope drag and any fall wouldnt have applied load on the sling or bottom wire. At the time i was just thinking "slings dont go on wires, it'll cut straight through"

What would you have done??

Here's a picture to help understand: