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Topic Date User

Belaying the leader directly off the anchor. 6-Aug-2012 At 12:50:06 PM muki

Message

On 6/08/2012 paul wrote:

>>Simon's guide has a sensational pic with the leader and belayer dangling
>>after a fall with the back of the belayer's head tucked under a prominent
>>bulge (on Common Knowledge).
>>
>
>In this situation the belayer could be suspended further down from their
>belay anchor, maybe a few meters in a hanging belay.

I do this climb in one pitch, I think most other climbers I know do it in the same way.

As to the set up shown, I read the commentary that came with it and except the unusual circumstances that are outlined,
the shock loading, and subsequent ability to hold a large 1.5 factor fall being the guts of the system.
The short anchor linkage that involves the belayer to be more stable in the advent of a huge loading,
due sometimes to the distance between ice screws,wet rock between ice sections giving sudden unexpected falls (even as a guide),
and thus being able to hold such a fall (by the inexperienced client) I think is the topic under discussion.
That a snow and Ice anchors have factors that are so different to a bolted anchor that we as Australian guides should take that into account,
as we do not have those types of situations (huge falls 1.5 ff) in our day to day guiding.
Also no need to get irate and stand on our high horses and call names because others opinion differs from your own, I thought Simons response was calm and well said.