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Belaying the leader directly off the anchor. 6-Aug-2012 At 12:48:37 PM Sliamese

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As a guide you'd know studies show 80% of beginner belayers will let go of the belay rope if they sustain a significant upward force(pulled of the ground/ledge). Hence back-ups by holding the rope or ground anchors.

I can see why the techniques developed, but would think if your that worried, bail. If not stick on a gri gri?? They say that its been tested, i have no doubt that its solid and safe, but have they tried rank beginners on it? As them letting go would be a reason to use this, will it increase the likelyhood they dont let go? Hmmm

That set-up is what i would reccomend for rope soloing tho, obviously a knot where they belay off.

And yeh im a guide, whoopty do. I know qualified guides that id say have a poor understanding of rope stuff! The ticket means nothing compared to experience!