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Topic Date User

Belaying the leader directly off the anchor. 6-Aug-2012 At 7:35:20 AM pecheur

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On 5/08/2012 Macciza wrote:
>I find it hard to believe that people can't see the reasoning and use's
>of this system.
>I have certainly used a variation on this theme to avoid massive uplift
>and pinning with Zac taking huge falls.
>And the 'we Aussie guides know our stuff' thing suggests a bit of xenophobia
>. . .
>What would the Guides in Europe and Canada know better than us . . .
>
>Look past the presentation problems etc and look at the core idea instead.
>There are certainly cases where a 'Fixed Point Belay' (whatever configuration)
>is good.
>
>I'm also amazed at how many people seemed to have missed the point of
>the exercise.
>Or who seem to have misunderstood the system in talking of shock-loading
>etc.
>Or their analysis of potential failure modes compared to a 'proper? system'?
>
>Anyway I appreciate the system and the reasoning and will certainly try
>it out . . .

Whilst I find it ironic that Macca is the one preaching progressive thought in climbing, he's right. I also can't see on a theoretical level why there's so much agro about this. Pretty much the first thing the video does is list out the specific situation and reasoning behind using this technique. Sure you won't find yourself in this situation often, but how does knowledge of a different technique hurt? Even if just to provoke thought and discussion.

It's quite narrow minded to think, well it's been good enough for generations why should we make any changes or consider anything different? It's making Wendy sound like Macca about u-bolts / rings ...