Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Topic Date User

Slack line anchors !?! 9-May-2012 At 12:02:45 PM Climboholic

Message

On 8/05/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>Meh, seems like comprehension of written ideas isn't exactly a strong suit
>amongst some chocky folk.

I was going to comment on how comprehension of the written word isn't exactly a strong suit amongst some chocky folk. But then.... CoolHandLock distracted me by his comprehension of physics!

I agree with Olbert. I did the calculations before I realised Olbert had already done them. I also found that the result wasn't as scary as I expected from the original post (by taking a few liberties with assumptions to make it match his result and pretending that "apparent weight" is a real thing).

The thing that worries me is that I don't think CHL really understands what he is saying? It sounds like he's using some simplified rules-of-thumb without any understanding of the physics. Which is fine until he uses a rule where it doesn't apply (like the death triangle) and doesn't realise he is doing something dangerous because he doesn't really understand.

You might think I'm being condescending, but put yourself in this situation: You're climbing with someone who claims to be a 'professional'. You get to the top of a tough pitch to find they've set up a hanging trad belay with a 'death triangle'. When you ask them wtf they're doing, they come out with complete nonsense like:

>It dosn't put 140% on each anchor. Only 50%. And 50% of body weight on a dynamic >rope = fudge all.