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Author

Hex's Vs Cams Vs Stoppers

jcrunk

4-Nov-2011
12:18:34 PM

Hey guys I'm fairly new to lead climbing but want to get some trad gear to give it a bit of a crack but am not sure what to start with...

What should I get first??
I've heard that I should learn how to place HEx's first then buy Cam's but also been told to buy Cam's because they are better...I climb mostly at Nowra NSW, Mt Keira (Wollongong) NSW & hopefully!! the Blue Mountains... which is sandstone

Any opinions or reccomendations will be appreciated.


BlankSlab

4-Nov-2011
12:31:46 PM

I can't really offer advice on what is best but take a look at the Wild Country Time To CLimb Promotion on at the moment.
You can get yourself a set of rockcentrics and the Classic wire set under $100 each to start off your rack. They also have some really good deals on cams. %40 off some of them.

Ill leave it up to the other guys as to what you should be starting with


Sabu

4-Nov-2011
12:56:56 PM

Its probably best to start with a set of nuts. What brand is really down to personal preference, I like Wild Country Rocks. You'll eventually want a full set plus doubles of at least the key sizes.

People often recommend hexes first as a beginner because they are cheaper (you could buy close to a set of hexes for the same price as a single cam). They are also cheaper to leave behind if you get them stuck or have to bail.

With cams, again brand is personal preference, and its better to start with the smaller sizes and work up rather than down.

Might be worth finding out from climbers who have been to your local areas as to what gear is most useful (I'm sure some here will be able to recommend).


benjenga

4-Nov-2011
5:42:46 PM

Find another trad climber to learn the ropes off. I have found and see many times over that the cams you learn on are the ones you end up buying. Hex's are great and a must for a beginner rack just learn how to place them bomber. I have friends that have been climbing for ages but still can't place a good hex.
You can get good deals on cam packs rock hardware or climbing anchours or just buy them one by one when you have some spare dollars.
Enjoy.


E. Wells

4-Nov-2011
6:08:11 PM

Trad is Rad.Get a bit of everything?

Dr Nick

4-Nov-2011
6:53:34 PM

Tricky. A lot of mountains stuff you want 5 squillion of one size of cam for a fairly consistent crack or umpteen horizontal breaks. The trad type stuff at the Big K takes a mix of stuff, but nuts are good. Nowra takes draws.

Get a full set of nuts and probably cams 2, 3, 4, maybe with a 1.5 and a 2.5 (depends on the make and model, but that'll do you from tight fingers through to fist cracks). ISTR seeing a set of three Wild Country cams for $180 ATM in about those sizes.

dan_b

6-Nov-2011
6:34:44 PM

Hey, sorry to hijack this thread but I am in a similar position. Making the transition from sport to trad in Vic, so I will be climbing at Araps/Grampians.

So far I have bought a set of rocks 1-11. I have used cams on previous leads/cleaned seconds so feel more comfortable placing cams than hexes. I am looking to expand. As a very general rule, do people think doubling on rocks size 1-6 and getting C4s sizes .5-3 would be a reasonable place to start? ie is small-medium size gear of more use in Vic (it has been in my limited trad experience).

Cheers,

Dan


Sabu

6-Nov-2011
8:05:44 PM

On 6/11/2011 dan_b wrote:
>So far I have bought a set of rocks 1-11. I have used cams on previous
>leads/cleaned seconds so feel more comfortable placing cams than hexes.
>I am looking to expand. As a very general rule, do people think doubling
>on rocks size 1-6 and getting C4s sizes .5-3 would be a reasonable place
>to start? ie is small-medium size gear of more use in Vic (it has been
>in my limited trad experience).

Spot on for the rocks, I'd definitely double up for those sizes. Also look at getting some RP's down the track as they can be useful (don't ask Wendy about that though..!).
As for cams I'd say get .3 - 2 (no need for 3+ unless you plan on grovelling up big cracks). Consider getting some of the larger C3's (ie 2 & 1) later on as well as they can also be quite handy.


wallwombat

6-Nov-2011
9:16:44 PM

On 4/11/2011 jcrunk wrote:
>..I climb mostly at Nowra NSW, Mt Keira (Wollongong) NSW & hopefully!! the Blue Mountains...
>which is sandstone
>
>Any opinions or reccomendations will be appreciated.

12 quickdraws.

dan_b

8-Nov-2011
10:11:22 PM

Cheers Sabu.

Bring on payday. And bumbling up some 10s.

Dan

gfdonc

9-Nov-2011
9:33:43 AM

My $0.02 - the DMM nuts with the divot in the side are the same sizes and colours as the Rocks, but sometimes sit better in odd placements. They're a good way to double up on those sizes.

citationx

9-Nov-2011
9:35:49 AM

On 9/11/2011 gfdonc wrote:
>My $0.02 - the DMM nuts with the divot in the side are the same sizes and
>colours as the Rocks, but sometimes sit better in odd placements. They're
>a good way to double up on those sizes.
>

These have been my primary nuts for a couple of years now, followed by a set of WC rocks for doubles...
My progression of nuts through my climbing career was BD -> WC -> DMM. I like the DMM the most by far!

pecheur

9-Nov-2011
10:08:58 AM

On 9/11/2011 gfdonc wrote:
>My $0.02 - the DMM nuts with the divot in the side are the same sizes and
>colours as the Rocks, but sometimes sit better in odd placements. They're
>a good way to double up on those sizes.
>
Here's mine as a trad noob. I like and have both the WC rocks and DMM wallnuts. I hate using other nuts, not because they are bad, but because they are different colours, having two different brands with the same "size" and colour is great, I can just look and know what piece is which (though that may not be the piece I need ;P).

I said "size" because Wallnuts whilst being the same thickness are about 10% "wider" than rocks. I've found one or two placements where a Rock will go but a Wallnut won't sit properly. That being said, I'd have a full set of one and a smaller set of the other. I have 1-11 in one and 1-8 in the other.

Course I'd be even happier if all companies "unitised" to one set of colours.


Eduardo Slabofvic

9-Nov-2011
1:02:07 PM

My set of wires are made up of multiple brands and multiples of the same "size". Such as with WC Rocks, they have gradually reduced in width over the years, so depending on when you bought them, the same "size" will one of 4 different widths.

Having a bag load of different sized and shaped wires is good, as each placement might favor one over another, as each different brand will have its own slight variation that may suit better. You should/will eventually get to know your wires well enough to know a certain shaped placement will suit a certain brand/size.

So go buy the cheaper WC rip offs and then add to them by wandering around Central Gully Left Side and the Organ Pipes late on a Sunday afternoon picking up what you find laying about (and I don't mean Simey)


BlankSlab

9-Nov-2011
1:28:38 PM

On 9/11/2011 citationx wrote:
>
>These have been my primary nuts for a couple of years now, followed by
>a set of WC rocks for doubles...
>My progression of nuts through my climbing career was BD -> WC -> DMM.
>I like the DMM the most by far!

Thats handy to know. Im using my farthers old rack that has been slowly updated. I have old WC nuts on there and was going to double up on the same but ill keep in mind and take a look at the DMM ones as well.

Steve Peckman

9-Nov-2011
2:22:04 PM

DMM Offsets are the Best by far in my opinion. I have 2x full sets of them and have retired my BD nuts and DMM wall nuts to supplement the offsets if they are needed.


MrsM10iswhereitsat.

9-Nov-2011
4:02:11 PM

On 4/11/2011 Mz jcrunk wrote:
>Hey guys I'm fairly new to lead climbing but want to get some trad gear
>to give it a bit of a crack but am not sure what to start with...
>
>What should I get first??
>I've heard that I should learn how to place HEx's first then buy Cam's
>but also been told to buy Cam's because they are better...I climb mostly
>at Nowra NSW, Mt Keira (Wollongong) NSW & hopefully!! the Blue Mountains...
>which is sandstone
>
>Any opinions or reccomendations will be appreciated.

Borrow your freinds rack first, if you are only going to "give it a bit of a crack", or join a club where you can use their gear.
Learn how to use it preferably under tuition.
Seek the opinion of the people who own it as to what they like about their rack, and what they would update it with if they were so inclined.
Observe climbers who in your opinion seem to know their stuff, and ask them why they chose what they have on their rack.

It all works dearie, but some of it is better than other parts of it for different climbs, rock types, and dare I say it, budgets!

Mr Poopypants

9-Nov-2011
8:44:10 PM

Hey J

Just PM'd you. Give me a call.

G.


Zarb

9-Nov-2011
10:26:16 PM

Get some tricams and learn how to use em. Great little buggers (and big buggers).


wallwombat

10-Nov-2011
2:07:55 AM

I have some Ukrainian cams, that I'll give you for a song.

There are 31 messages in this topic.