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Best rock climbing book to learn from

jcrunk

3-Mar-2011
2:45:52 PM

Hey just wondering what a good book to learn from would be and where to get it from.

I've done mostly gym and some top roping outdoors and want to get into lead climbing.

I can climb up to about an "indoor" grade 24 if that helps


Eduardo Slabofvic

3-Mar-2011
2:48:15 PM

House at Pooh Corner

Mike Bee

3-Mar-2011
2:49:23 PM

"How To Rock Climb" is a good book for learning how to rock climb. Sounds patronizing, but I'm being serious. There's a couple of books with this title. Glen Tempest has one out, as does John Long (released as a Falcon Guide).

They'll be the best overview. If you specifically want to get into sport climbing, then a book like "Sport Climbing" or "Clip and Go" (both Falcon Guides) could be good options.

If you want to get into trad, grab a copy of "Climbing Anchors" by John Long, another Falcon Guide, or "Climbing Anchors" by Craig Lubben, published by the Mountaineers.


Superstu

3-Mar-2011
2:57:08 PM

The best book is probably Glenn Tempest's "Rockclimbing Getting Started" simply because its written for Australian climbers and has some local knowledge.

http://www.osp.com.au/shop/rockclimbing-getting-started-p-3.html

However you can't learn to climb safely from a book. Do a course or get someone to teach you. There are instructors in Katoomba or take a holiday to Arapiles which is the best crag in the world to learn to climb.

vonClimb

3-Mar-2011
3:02:41 PM

I think the best thing to do is to learn hands on via a course or by having someone take you out and teach you.

I found most of the books pretty difficult to follow when I was first learning and inevitably a waste of time. They tend to go into significant detail on things that arn't revelance.

However, books can be useful for learning some of the knots. There are heaps of books available that cover this.

vonClimb

3-Mar-2011
3:17:37 PM

Also, if you haven't already, try sport leading indoors. It is useful for learning how to deal with the mental game of leading trad, along with how to fall (and belay falls) safely.

maxdacat

3-Mar-2011
3:29:04 PM

Allow me to introduce you to the delights of Amazon with these gems:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Rock-Climbing-Essential-Skills-Techniques/dp/0954151119

and

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sport-Climbing-Positive-Approach-Improve/dp/1873341865/ref=pd_bxgy_b_img_b

there is also a rockfax trad climbing one:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Trad-Climbing-Rockfax-Guide/dp/1873341911/ref=sr_1_6?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1299126412&sr=1-6

and keep in mind free shipping to Oz for the next 2 months.


Gavo

3-Mar-2011
3:32:18 PM

Another option which always has free shipping is The Book Depository in the UK

http://www.bookdepository.co.uk/

Not nearly as good a selection as Amazon, but sometimes cheaper.

Ive ordered from both, and have had each beat the other in terms of speed. Sometimes they arrive within a week, othertimes Ive waited 3.


ambyeok

3-Mar-2011
3:43:54 PM

On 3/03/2011 vonClimb wrote:
>Also, if you haven't already, try sport leading indoors. It is useful for
>learning how to deal with the mental game of leading trad, along with how
>to fall (and belay falls) safely.

If you cant belay safely then decking your partner in the gym is not gonna help. In fact if you cant instinctively belay safely then maybe climbing is not for you. Sure, there are some fancy techniques for soft catches and what-not but thats not for beginners anyway. Leading in the gym is either (a) a sport in of itself of no real training benefit done purely for recreational purposes, or (b) a total wank and waste of time; it depends on your perspective.


ambyeok

3-Mar-2011
4:03:05 PM

It should not be interpreted as either condescending or elitist. Leading in the gym is a perfectly valid recreational passtime. Simply that I don't see any training benefit to be had from leading in the gym.

bones

3-Mar-2011
4:11:31 PM

On 3/03/2011 ambyeok wrote:
> Simply that I don't
>see any training benefit to be had from leading in the gym.

Fair enough, although many would disagree (Dave Mcleod, Arno llgner)


Eduardo Slabofvic

3-Mar-2011
4:59:17 PM

I disagree with the "lead head" point. Everything is too contrived in the gym to assist in getting your head together for leading. For example route finding is non-existent in gyms, and the likelihood of you having to do hard moves above protection (and I don't mean just above) is also pretty slim.

Other things like locking off, down climbing, searching out holds, working foot holds are also limited.

I do agree on the strength and belay technique points


ambyeok

3-Mar-2011
5:21:55 PM

On 3/03/2011 davidn wrote:
>You can train many things. Strength (yep, gym works for that)... how to tie in (no probs)

I know we disagree... but just to make sure we haven't got our wires crossed I'm not saying gym top rope isnt good training. I'm questioning the benefits of gym leading.

vonClimb

3-Mar-2011
5:31:35 PM

On 3/03/2011 Eduardo Slabofvic. wrote:
>I disagree with the "lead head" point. Everything is too contrived in
>the gym to assist in getting your head together for leading.

So does that mean when you lead in the gym you are totally care-free about falling?
I think most people instinctively want to avoid falling, even though it is very safe in the gym.

That must recreate some (albeit very small) element of leading outdoors.

Secondly, surely there is something to gain with practicing how you fall in the gym (practicing your fall like a cat technique).

hero

3-Mar-2011
5:39:26 PM

Downward Bound
Feed the Rat
Take it to the Limit
The Ascent of Rum Doodle
The Rope Dancer
Solo Faces
We aspired, the last Innocent Americans
Bone Games


wallwombat

3-Mar-2011
5:46:04 PM

Read as much as you can.

If you are limited to a couple of books, then I recommend John Long's 'How To Rock Climb' and 'Climbing Anchors'. Read them cover to cover a few times and you will have a head start.

martym

3-Mar-2011
6:17:24 PM

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Climbers-Handbook-Sir-Chris-Bonington/dp/1843308118

This book has dozens of colour photos and diagrams and takes you from learning to tie the figure 8 through to Aid climbing & Mountaineering.
A good introduction, with loads of 80s outfits (and some Simon Carter photography in there to boot!)


Miguel75

3-Mar-2011
7:01:34 PM

I picked up 'climbing anchors' and 'Rock Climbing - mastering basic skills' by Leubben and really enjoy them both. I also agree with the 'gym leading brigade' on this one. I feel leading in the gym helps develop confidence in recognizing stances from which to clip, clipping with different hands from different angles and stamina, which I find extremely valuable. I don't believe it helps with route selection (unless you're colour blind), gear placement or organizing belays/rope management though this is fun to do when I'm on real rock.

I reckon anything that you can do inside to help develop skills and confidence to be used outside is a valuable training tool.

neverclimbed32

4-Mar-2011
1:38:39 PM

Like Ed said. If you want a good read then "House on Pooh Cnr" is an excellent choice.

If you want to learn to climb rock then join a club or sign up for a course with a reputable provider with suitably qualified guide. Failing that hook up with suitably experienced peers who are willing to share some knowledge with you.
Yes gym climbing is not rock climbing so when I see you can climb a 24 in the gym, I read that you are even more able to climb your way into trouble tham your average noob.

All those instructional books are good but in my experience the best book to learn from is "Accidents in North American Mountineering". Benefit from the experience, sometimes fatal of others, as to what the consquences are of lack of attention to sometimes even the minutest detail.

Winston Smith

4-Mar-2011
2:29:00 PM

Deliverance, especially when you're going to Tassie or Natimuk.

There are 28 messages in this topic.