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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Topic Date User

At the risk of a character assasination... 14-Apr-2005 At 3:20:31 PM LittleMac

Message

Not very common for "hard routes" to be onsighted. Of the very few people I know who do so, Malcolm Matheson is probably the best at it. Hard trad routes are a bit like sport routes in a way, people often work these routes and by the time the photographers arrive for the glory shots, they have wroked out exactly what they need in order to protect the route.

So I suppose the answer to your question is, if you are climbing at your limit and intend to onsight, either get very good at judging what gear you are going to need from the ground, become bolder and happier with not having the right gear or deal with the fact that you mat have to carry quite a bit of gear to do the route. It is usually quite easy to decide whether you are going to need the big cowbells (hexes) or big cams for example so this can help you trim the rack etc.

Hope this helps