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Anchoring advice 7-Apr-2010 At 10:20:06 PM Crimpn-like-a-Pimp

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cheers for the feedback

Looks like a sweet book, im ordering it as we speak.

Phil Box, with your reason number 2 for a high anchor, i thought the idea of belaying from the anchor and not your harness was to remove the chance of you getting yanked up if the leader falls? Someone also said that they would place an upwards directional piece if they were being belayed by a person of lesser weight. These statements seem confusing, shouldn't the anchor be taking the weight of the leader, not the belayer, if a lead fall occurs?

It seems sensible to me (with the help of the previous posts) to have AT LEAST 2 points satisfying a down direction and 2 points satisfying an up direction (eg 2 multi and 1 down, 2 multi and 1 up or 2 down and 2 up), thus no 1 piece will ever take 100% of the load.