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Topic Date User

Anchoring advice 6-Apr-2010 At 5:23:11 PM Crimpn-like-a-Pimp

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Question:

Setting up the anchor to belay your 2nd-er person through the pitch, it seems logical to have all anchor pieces set to take a downwards directional force. Then when you continue to climb after 2nd-er person has reached belay point, it would be logical to have all anchor pieces set to take an upwards directional force for the leader but logical also to have pieces with downward direction force for the safety of 2nd-er, belaying.

So when you are setting up an anchor and you cant find multi-directional protection to protect both the leader as the belayer, the 2nd-er as the climber and belayer, is there a good method to ensuring the safety of both climbers and minimising gear brought up a route?

For example if i were to have 3 anchor points for my belay station, and at all 3 i had to choose either upwards or downwards directional force, would i then best put 6 pieces of pro in so each of the 3 anchor points had a bit of gear to take an 'up' and 'down' force if required?

apologies if this is confusing...