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Dave MacLeod lowering accident 7-Oct-2012 At 7:39:39 PM Climboholic

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On 5/10/2012 Wendy wrote:
>On 5/10/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>
>>
>>What are you talking about? I'm even more impressed with McCloud's climbing
>>now, knowing that he tows that huge melon up all his ascents!
>>
>>By the way, Climbaholic wins some sort of prize for being the only person
>>so far to correctly identify that the cause of the acco was failure to
>>tie a knot in the end of the rope. Watching the pile of rope, Wendy?..........wtf?
>
>Well, i don't watch it slide through the bloody belay device!

Wendy, I was supporting your argument by offering the simple solution of tying a knot in the rope to eliminate human error. I know that ODH put you on the defensive but he makes a very good point. There is no reason not to incorporate the routine to tie the end of the rope.

> I'll chuck a knot in the end of them rope if, as I am watching pile the rope, it starts
>getting uncomfortably close to not be a pile of rope anymore. For that
>matter, if I'm getting lowered off a climb, i'll have a glance or two at
>the rope pile to make sure there's plenty of rope as well and remind my
>belayer about it.

I'm sure that you realise that watching the pile of rope so you can stop and put a knot in it while still on belay is nonsense. Why not tie the knot before the climber leaves the ground so you can concentrate on other poential risks instead???

> If either one of them had paid appropriate attention
>to the rope, it wouldn't have gone sailing through the belay device.

In my opinion it is the belayers job to pay attention to lowering the climber, not to watch the rope at their feet.

> Sure, a knot is fool proof, but if you are not a fool, being attentive is also
>highly successful. How many people have I lowered off the end of a rope
>again?
>

Anyone in industry involved with safety systems will tell you this goes against the principal of minimum practical risk! I know that on this site people tend to argue and defend their position for the sake of it, but as a guide I would expect you to take a professional approach to risk management. Routine procedures are a reliable way to achieve a minimum safety standard.

Remember that clients learn by example from what you do, not just what you say. They may not have the risk assessment skills and situational awareness that you have developed through experience.

I know from your posts that you think things through critically and logically. So you have probably already considered these points despite a bit of personal criticism levelled at you earlier.