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Topic Date User

Accident on Loboff 5/3/2011 9-Mar-2011 At 4:39:16 PM rolsen1

Message

On 9/03/2011 Gavo wrote:
>I have to say I disagree with that sentiment.
>
>The idea that there are climbers out there who have never made a decision
>where IF they fell, they would have been quite badly hurt... I dont believe
>it.

Of course, there is a huge difference between running it out cause there is no gear options and choosing not to place gear.

On 7/03/2011 Gavo wrote:
>noone else was injured, just his belayer was understandably shaken but
>he did everything right. He caught the fall well and called for help, though
>we arrived soon after and Larry was sitting up, coherent and keeping pressure
>on his head.

I also think that a belayer that "does everything right" should be communicating with the leader about possible consequences of the leader's actions. Asking questions like, "should you place something", "how are you feeling" "how are the moves" "can you down climb" and also offer encouragement if they sense the leader is struggling

A good belayer should help to minimise the leader's mistakes, although this may happened it hasn't been noted here.

Edit: and if you don't have a good belayer don't do climbs at your limit