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Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

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Factor 2 22-Apr-2010 At 7:08:55 PM ZERO

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>If I understand correctly then that means the rope goes from your belay
>device, through the top piece of gear and then to the second. Personally
>I would avoid this because if the second falls, the load will all be on
>that top piece of gear and it will be doubled (due to 2 load-bearing strands
>of rope). If it pops you're in a bad situation - you'll have one less piece
>of gear in your anchor which could result in shock loading due to extension
>(depending on how you set it up) and will almost definitely result in your
>anchor being loaded in a different direction than you expected.

If you are belaying a 2nd properly from above, there should not be enough slack rope out to cause any serious shock to a belay.
If they have to rest the load is dispersed by the anchor and not the harnes of the belayer.
I made the mistake of belaying directly off my harness once, when my 2nd rested i was in a very uncomfortable position pinned to the rock, and could not offer any assistance. I will always belay through a high point when I can.