Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

Report Accidents and Injuries

Topic Date User

Factor 2 22-Apr-2010 At 1:31:00 PM evanbb

Message

On 22/04/2010 ajfclark wrote:
>I'm confused a bit here Evan, if you're sitting on the edge you've already
>extended the anchor to the edge, haven't you? In the same situation, I'd
>usually just use a couple of figure eights in the rope to extend them anchor
>to the edge, clip myself in to that and belay off it too. Is that the
>kind of thing you mean?

Yeah, that's pretty much it.

In the scenario above I would make an anchor, say 4m away from the edge, just a standard 3 piece trad anchor. I then put my lead rope through the main point and if necessary sort of abseil down to the point I want to belay from. I then tie a figure8 on a bite (bight?) on the upcoming rope and clip that so that I'm anchored.

Almost always now that I have a BD Guide, I then tie a second F8 below my knot and clip the belay device into that and give them a top belay. Even safer on double ropes as my rope and the belay rope can be seperated.

Better?

EDIT: I'd originally mentioned a figure 9. I'm not supposed to tell anyone about that yet.