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Factor 2 20-Apr-2010 At 7:22:51 AM evanbb

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I echo the comments above. Good on both of you getting back on the horse.

But, some pedantry to illustrate a point.

You said your leader slumped onto a cam, which popped, before she fell. For a Textbook Factor 2 the rope above the belay should essentially be dead vertical with nothing in between, even if it is a terrible cam. This, however hopeless, will diminish the fall factor. What you probably experienced was more like a factor 1.9. Imagine if it was worse!

That's why putting pieces in is a good idea. Even if they zipper each one winds off a little bit of energy. At least now you've got personal experience to hassle your leaders about not placing enough gear. And you can be selfish while doing it.

Were you using doubles? I think this might have helped your experience a bit as well. Inevitably the ropes will come tight at differrent rates, which slows the catch a touch. Also, it means twice as much rope for your belay device and hands to hold, meaning much higher friction.