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Ankles busted in the Bluies 23-Apr-2009 At 7:59:13 PM rolsen1

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On 23/04/2009 bomber pro wrote:
>On 23/04/2009 rolsen1 wrote:
>>On 22/04/2009 bomber pro wrote:
>>>As i stated before, the safest option is to fit the prussic above the
>>>device, this catches any error in
>>>threading the device.
>true

good to see you agree with yourself there Muki.

snip

>Well if I was above dislodging the rock, then there are a few alternatives.
>1: rescue haul from above to get him/her to where I am, then descend together.
snip
>2: down prussic to him/her and connect with more than one point ! its
>called redundancy.
snip
>3:install extra friction to compensate the extra load on the rappel.
snip
>4:I have arrived on prussic, therefore I can use these as anchor points
snip
>I can't understand why you think it would be out of reach, when I would
snip
>Important to note, not all these auto blocks are easily releasable once
snip
>As I said there are many options and I always look for the safest, most
>straight forward and fastest

Hey I still agree with myself as well!

On 21/04/2009 rolsen1 wrote:
>Obviously, the rock fall case is different but is that why people are
>using them and how many people climb with partners who will be able to
>rescue them when they are dangling unconscious from a rope half way up
>a steep face? And what precautions are we taking from rock fall from a
>leader hitting a belayer?

great point and I think Muki just proved it

>That's why these sort of threads annoy me so much, people make blanket
>statements about safety practices which are only playing around the edges

Yes, another great point Richard