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Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

Report Accidents and Injuries

Topic Date User
The 14-Jan-2009 At 12:30:21 PM Onsight
Message
A lot of the information so far made public about the accident and the bolts on this climb is inaccurate. In an effort to clear up a few questions I’ve inspected the scene of the accident and closely inspected the bolts.

Here is my personal report on the accident and the bolts

I strongly recommend that everyone reads it especially if you are planning to climb in the Blue Mountains. Not every climber reads this forum but this is the quickest way to get the info out there.

NOTE: Unless it has occurred in the last few days, so far the bolts have not yet been removed from this climb.

So far the route near BBB is the only one that I know of around here where these bolts have been used. There may be other routes. The bolts can be identified by the “22KN”, “Raumer” and “Italy” stamped on the bracket.

One of the problems is that from casual inspection the bolts look good (aside from being expansion bolts). There is NOT a lot of tread showing above the nut. Even so the two I tested pulled out under far less than body weight.

The bolts on three climbs which start on a nearby ledge have been removed by some climbers. These bolts were not the same as those on the route near Bunny Bucket Buttress and were almost certainly equipped by different climbers. I’m told they were relative good bolts but since they were expansion bolts they were removed anyway. It seems some climbers have decided that expansion bolts aren’t going to be accepted around here as permanent anchors. I think that’s good.

I’ve discussed this with Neil and he’s agreed to open this thread up for discussion. As always, we ask if people be respectful and consider whoever might be reading any comments.

There are 195 replies to this topic.

 

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