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Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

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Wrist Pain 18-Aug-2007 At 5:07:09 PM kezza

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update for those interested.... i can understand if your not.

Well I saw a wrist hand specialist who was a climber at the start of the year. She told me I had shite grip and pinch strength, and apparently climbers should be off the chart with that sort of thing... Anywho basically my big wrist stabilising muscles were doing nothing, and my little wrist muscles and tendons were left to do all the work and at this point were giving up. My tendons were stressing out.
I was told to lay off the crimps, and only climb on easy stuff until my muscles caught up again. (she picked i was a climber before even asking my name, apparently I have typical climbers bad posture! dead give away) She told me to go to the weights gym, i hated this idea, so i didn't go...
I limited myself to climbing easy trad for 6 months (not a cheap exercise buying trad gear). I have only just started playing on harder climbs and haven't had a problem with my wrist at all. I only tape my wrist sometimes bouldering to remind myself I'm no super woman!

Oh if your wanting to get your muscles strong in a very short time, go to Frog and thrash about on anything under 16!