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22-Apr-2007 8:36:59 PM
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anyone know what accident occured at shipley today?
hope it was something minor
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23-Apr-2007 8:09:51 AM
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Leader fall from 3.5m on a grade 13 just left of These People are Sandwiches. Had placed a cam (poorly) and moved up to clip a bolt. Overbalanced and fell backwards onto his back on uneven ground(the deck), when the cam pulled. Apparently it didn't take much removing. Bumped, bruised, scraped but nothing major. Was wearing a helmet which definitely helped. Stretcher carry to the car park and off to Katoomba hospital. Was from the University of Technology climbing group. They'd done a pretty good job patching him up and looking after him.
Ado
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23-Apr-2007 8:38:30 AM
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Which 13 - Pompadour or Trinity?
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23-Apr-2007 8:44:21 AM
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Trinity first bolt is a bit more than 3.5m off the ground isn't it?
Hope the person involves has a speedy recovery.
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23-Apr-2007 12:21:31 PM
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He was climbing Pompadour and fell reaching for the first bolt after setting his first cam, which did not hold. We do not have the full diagnoses details by now, but it does not seem worse than perhaps broken bones. The hospital will keep him for at least half a week, though.
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23-Apr-2007 12:48:22 PM
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Aus Climbing Association website has that climb listed as:
Pompadour 20m 13 Mixed [serious]
Should be forgotten about.
I've climbed the 18 to the right of it several times, but never really had a look as to where that 13 is. Didn't seem worth it. I think it was similarly bagged in the old guidebook.
What does the all new solar-powered expanded-star-system guidebook say about it, dare I ask?
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23-Apr-2007 1:04:50 PM
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On 23/04/2007 BigMike wrote:
>
>Aus Climbing Association website has that climb listed as:
>
>Pompadour 20m 13 Mixed [serious]
>Should be forgotten about.
>
>
>I've climbed the 18 to the right of it several times, but never really
>had a look as to where that 13 is. Didn't seem worth it. I think it was
>similarly bagged in the old guidebook.
>
>What does the all new solar-powered expanded-star-system guidebook say
>about it, dare I ask?
>
Simon Carter's new Guidebook says "Should be forgotten about" and the entry carries the little 'hand' symbol indicating "A route known to be especially risky"
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23-Apr-2007 1:10:16 PM
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Hmmm.
Ta!
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23-Apr-2007 3:24:30 PM
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These guys were probably using a 1960's guide that gave it three stars!
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23-Apr-2007 4:01:53 PM
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... or, they looked at the grade but not the warnings...
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23-Apr-2007 4:04:13 PM
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... "Which never would happen with ENGLISH gradings cos then it would have been given HVS 4a, which would have told you it was way more serious than HVS 5a, of course, cos that's the beauty of the system" etc...
(as told by every Pom over a beer in a pub)
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23-Apr-2007 4:06:40 PM
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Actually we had the most recent guide book with us (Blue Mountains Climbing, 2007 edition) and looked at it too. The climber decided to do the climb, knowing what he was on to.
I think there is no need for specs, just ask ;)
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23-Apr-2007 4:09:38 PM
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On 23/04/2007 SomeBdyElse wrote:
>I think there is no need for specs, just ask ;)
What, and miss out a chance to expose our prejudices?
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23-Apr-2007 4:34:33 PM
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Good to see that the guide book description was spot on.
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23-Apr-2007 6:42:17 PM
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I climbed Pompadour years ago when I couldn't climb much harder. However I spent a lot of time on chossy, run out grade 11s, 12s 13s and 14s. The first few moves are not much different to the grade 18 to the right (which I climbed, latter on, when I'd run out of easy stuff to do)
There have been quite a few accidents in the mountains lately on low grade (13,14,15) climbs. Unfortunately, even on low grade climbs gravity works just the same and the ground is just as hard when you hit it.
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