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MCP finger ligament strain

7:20:50 PM
Hi guys just following on from my previous post.. Done a little research and found out that it is my MCP (metacarpophalangeal) joint ligament that has been strained. It's a bit swollen now after bouldering last night after a 2 week break and is a bit sore to rub. It's only on one side (left side of middle finger on L hand) and only on the ligament. What I was hoping to find out from anyone is:
- expected recovery time
- any recouperation activities/treatment
- level of climbing possible (if any)
- whether mtb would affect it (d/h and xc)
any help would be great!

12:40:14 PM
Stop procrastinating Rich...just book in with Julian and get all the answers.

1:45:55 PM
On 10/09/2005 dalai wrote:
>Stop procrastinating Rich...just book in with Julian and get all the answers.

yeh yeh I know, I'd love to, but with very little spare cash (saving for europe for end of 05) and no real income at the moment, I'm trying here first.. :-)
ps man and ute and for hire :P
2:55:26 PM
On 10/09/2005 Rich wrote:
>yeh yeh I know, I'd love to, but with very little spare cash (saving for
>europe for end of 05) and no real income at the moment, I'm trying here
>first.. :-)

Yes, I remember that scenario. Best of luck Rich.
12:12:23 AM
i tweaked one in may on the other side of the joint to yours, cracked the knuckle as it got injured and it was hyper sensitive to resisting lateral movement for about 3 months. its now 100%. i restricted finger strength training to the turntillburn and outdoor climbing over a 2 month period and dropped bouldering/plastic. something surprising that really helped recovery was to favour the other hand when belaying and to use a tube/reverso rather than just the usual knot through the carabiner.

1:45:32 PM
thanks for the info rod, appreciate it. What is the turntillburn tho? It sounds as though yours might have been slighlty more severe than mine so hopefully, less time off rock. I'm pretty hesitant bout climbing at all to be honest bein that I'll soon be on my longest trip.. certainly dont want any injuries holding me back whilst climbing over in europe! argh.. as for belaying, yeh we don't often use the munter hitch (i assume thats what you mean?), generally use tubes or gri gris.
5:39:47 PM
i didn't stop climbing for more that the initial 3 or 4 days it took to get inflammation under control. i then refocussed on the style of climbing to try and eliminate lateral force power moves that affected that area. the obvious benefit has been an improvement in stamina but the turntillburn focus has seen finger power improvements too. its a bit of a mental torture device but i've found it speeds recovery from rock sessions/minor injury. you'll find it easy to pick up in europe. enjoy your trip, i came for 18 months and its now been over 10 years...

4:49:42 PM
finger still buggin you richo? shoudl go see someone

8:10:09 PM
yeh it sucks huh.. there's like a bit of a lump there now :( :( i'm seeing julian next week (who'll prob be reading this now.. hi!).. so looks like i'm off for a bit :(

8:35:37 PM
On 16/09/2005 Rich wrote:
>yeh it sucks huh.. (snip) ... so looks like i'm off for a bit :(
The bright side is that it should give your tips a chance to recover as well.

10:44:31 PM
OKies the update for those that are interested..
Its been about 5 weeks now and I'm back climbing as of yesterday and tonight. Finger's causing no problems climbing and is not sore to touch but is soreish to move to the left towards ring finger as apparently there is a cyst that has developed there. Here's the techo low-down from Julian:
A small cyst formation in the tendon of the dorsal interosseus muscle controlling abduction of the middle finger (movement toward the little finger). This would have arisen from a slight tear or strain in that tendon at the time of injury.

So there u go.. hopefully it goes away by itself but if not I may have to look at having it removed drained or something. Haven't researched it properly yet.
Anyway back climbing thats the main thing!! :) And yes M8 my tips have had a chance to regrow! :)
See you on the rock..

There are 11 messages in this topic.


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