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Blue Mountains - male climber injured after fall 12-Nov-2013 At 10:30:35 PM pecheur

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On 12/11/2013 kieranl wrote:
>On 12/11/2013 patto wrote:
>>Those cases Beal presents are worst case scenarios. Those are calculated
>>values not real world values. In practice we'd see far more gear and
>body
>>failure if that was the case! At 14kN, you would be receiving 8.75kN
>on
>>your pelvis! In practice I've seen 2kN and 3kN rated pieces take falls.
>
>Am I missing something : if the runner is getting a 14kN hit I would expect
>the climber to be getting 7kN, equal and opposite forces and all that.
>I accept that the Beal figures are worst-case scenarios but still worth
>taking note of. A good way to avoid encountering a worst-case scenario
>is to try to not meet all the pre-conditions.

You're missing the effect of friction Kieran, the climber gets the rough end of it. I'm not sure exactly what patto was using for the coefficient of friction of loaded rope through a carabiner, but the values I've seen published range from 30-40%