Goto Chockstone Home

  Tech Tips

      Sponsored By

Chockstone Photography
Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

Report Accidents and Injuries

Topic Date User
Climber injured in bluies after 30m fall 2/Jan/13 22-Jan-2013 At 1:31:24 PM oldtraddad
Hi Guys

For those not interested in maths there are two points relating to this that I think need clarifying, and as well as wishing the injured climbers a speedy recovery their response to clarifying here could be useful.

Shock loads (large forces over short periods of times) magnify anchor failure possibilities. "Stuff rips out when you yank on it".

Was the belayer clipped into the single cam belay with a static sling/daisy/lanyard? and were they either to the side or not tight below this?
If so this does produce greater loads it is always better to attach in with the climbing rope. A clove hitch is a great knot for this, easly adjustable without coming off the anchor.

Was the belay device a self locking device, like a gri gri eddie etc? If so the lack of slippage increases peak loading. especially once runners pull and the load is downwards onto the belayers harness.

If your climbing on gear really consider an ATC type belay device. If you end up with a fall directly onto the belay the slippage can burn hands but drastically reduces loading on an anchor.

Best wishes and be safe out there

There are 141 replies to this topic.


Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Landscape Photos Australia

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.

Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | High Country Mountain Huts | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints