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Climber injured in bluies after 30m fall 2/Jan/13 21-Jan-2013 At 9:01:52 PM pecheur

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On 21/01/2013 jrc wrote:

>As an example, consider a climber 2m above the belayer who is tied tightly
>to the belay. The climber falls off, falling 4m then the rope goes tight
>after a 4m fall. FF= 4/2 = 2 (assuming no slip no elongation & no further
>slack in the system). This means the force to be counteracted is mass x
>g x 2 = 16kN for an 80 kg climber. Not a lot of gear holds up that well.
>
>
>Now consider the climber 2m above the belayer who is tied on but with
>1m slack between the belay and the belayer. The climber falls off, falling
>4m, then pulling the belayer off and down 1 m, then the rope goes tight
>after what is now a 5m fall. FF= 5/2 = 2.5 (assuming no slip no elongation
>& no further slack in the system). This means the force to be counteracted
>(by the rope) is mass x g x 2.5 = 20kN for an 80 kg climber, plus the weight
>of the belayer…. Even less likely the gear will hold, especially a less
>than perfect placement in weakish rock.
>
?!?!?! Somebody with more patience than I please stop me from going ODH on this guy? I'm sure he means to help. Please? That's some of the worst set of assumptions and pseudo physics I've seen.

I apologise about the assumptions comment if jrc climbs with steel cable...