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Topic Date User

Climber injured in bluies after 30m fall 2/Jan/13 18-Jan-2013 At 10:14:22 AM pecheur

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On 18/01/2013 Jakob wrote:
>Hah, thanks for that!
>
>A bit more math for the masses, a bd cam is rated to 8kn (less for smaller
>ones.) 8kn is 800kg, therefore you could actually expect a single cam
>to fail under a ff2 fall generating 850kg of force - something which is
>not an obvious thing. Common sense would say a 10m fall with 20m rope out
>would be worse than a 4m fall with 2m rope out hunting for your first piece,
>although in reality you have the system absorbing 2.5x body weight in the
>first compared to 10x body weight in second.

Firstly as mentioned by Shorty, all C4s are rated higher than that, and a couple of the C3s, we don't know what cam was in use.

Secondly I wasn't there, but there's no implication that the cam failed at all, just the anchor (which could be cam failure, poor placement or rock failure). The way Jacob's post is written it's implied the cam failed which with the information so far in the thread is speculation.

PS No one's suggesting using a single cam anchor, but making assumptions on failure modes is also unhelpful.