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Topic Date User

partners for NZ Alps in Feb 22-Dec-2005 At 10:57:32 PM Romfrantic

Message

Ok, here's another update from vanessa (Thurs 22 Dec)...

"...Basically I gave up alpinism for rock due to the
shocking conditions.
The crevasses are wide open and in 5 days at Pioneer
we only had one decent freeze. The rest of the time we
were knee deep at 8am. There were 8 days of NE winds,
high temps and afternoon rain. Things would improve
with a decent southerly but the weather seemed to have
stalled.

Stuff I can confirm from being there of guide reports
within the last 48 hours:

Zurbriggens is a death trap.
It is still possible to get up the Linda in a freeze
though its likely the glacier will become difficult to
negotiate in a few weeks
The north shoulder to N ridge of Tasman is in
excellent condition, again if it would only freeze.
ice routes eg NE couloir on Lendenfeld, Douglas S face
and even N couloir on Halcombe are very very bare and
dangerous".

Take care and have a safe season in NZ guys !