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Find Climbers In Your Area

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south africa 22-Nov-2005 At 2:45:43 PM Nottobetaken

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Part 1:

The SACIN website that Martin has listed is the best source of climbing info for South Africa - but for a personal spin on some of the crags here's an overview:

Magaliesburg (Mpumalanga province)
Very beautiful gorge not very far from Johannesburg (relatively speaking)
Trad as well as sport routes with the majority in the vertical range - 20-30m pitches. Rock is generally very good.

The Restuarant/Waterfal Boven (Mpumalanga province)
If you're travelling in this area or staying in this province (major airport being Johannesburg) - then do yourself a favour and visit the place. Outstanding scenery, amazing rock (very reminiscent of Moonarie architecture) with loads of bolted sport routes and a bit of trad.

Kloof Gorge (Natal)
Wonderful gorge beneath built up suburban area 25 mins out of Durban. Bolted sport routes is the norm with everything ranging from face to 40 degree overhanging. Excellent guide to Natal by Roger Nattrass spells out everything you need to know.

Monteseel (Natal)
Approx 45kms out of Durban. One of the oldest climbing venues in South Africa. Majority is trad though bolts exist sparingly on the harder lines (25+). Fantastically exposed due to a backdrop of 'The Valley of a Thousand Hills' - which sweeps away beneath you. Loads of routes at any grade up to Australian 27. Single pitch routes can reach up to 50m in length - and there are some multi-pitch affairs. A mountain hut (run by the Mountaineering Club of Sth Africa) is located on top of the cliff and can be used for accomodation (key available by appointment with a local neighbour). Contact the MCSA (031) 767-2319 if you're interested.

The Wave Cave (Natal) - Shongweni area
A much (relatively) newer breed of crag closer to Durban. Extremely steep sport routes with nothing easier than Australian 23 - though pointless visiting unless you are climbing well into the 26/27 bracket. Home of some of South Africa's hardest routes like Roger Nattrass's Barricade 31 (which was famously onsighted by Swiss climber Elie Cheaveau back in the '90's!)

Drakensburg Mountains (Natal)
For climbing roped routes (as opposed to just hiking) - then this place is a very serious location. Bad rock quality, epic access (to the climbs) and retreats and uncertain weather patterns. This is true adventure climbing. The majority of people go hiking in this area - mainly because it is one of the most beautiful places in the world - and is easily accessible. Totally trad based and quite out there. If you're going to go climbing here - then you'll need a good team and some good planning. Go hiking instead!