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Chockstone Forum - Find Climbers

Find Climbers In Your Area

Topic Date User
Mount Buffalo NP - Big wall/Aid Fest Nov 2019 ? 25-Oct-2019 At 11:37:08 AM davedave
Message
@Duang Daunk - interesting you suggest HTP was forced into solo aiding "because the chance of bumping into another aid climber is minimial!", given he ran into Scott and Andrew on Ozymandias direct this year.

As for total numbers, I certainly don't know anyone going aid-cragging for the fun of it, but I've seen a quite a few aussie bigwall teams in Yosemite valley over the last year and didn't run into any of them doing all-free bigwall climbing (though i'm sure they're around).

@White trash - RE: the pace of aid climbing, I suspect the average time on-wall time of a competent mixed aid/free teams is less then those attempting all-free bigwall ascents (especially those doing rappel-in rehearsals). Those not quite competent probably spend even less time as they tend to bail to the pub/pizza deck.

That said I've certainly both abused and been abused by multi-hour belay sessions, though recent innovations may improve belayer comfort ( https://www.facebook.com/highmtngearnrepair/photos/a.369893917131162/525531461567406/?type=3&theater ).

Of course if I could half decently free climb I could save on all the extra baggage fees and climb in better style, until then I'll just have to get better at cheating.

Though getting on ozy direct with no/minimal experience seems to be a right of passage for aspiring australian wall climbers I don't think it's the ideal introduction to aid/wall climbing; stories of groundfalls and minor (but potentially immobilising) injuries, or just straight up bails seem pretty common. Hence the interest in having some sort of training event.

M9, TimP, PeterW - best of luck on your Ozy trip; are you going to use Tims ledge ?

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