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Topic Date User

Araps(?) may 12-13, leaving ballarat/melbourne 30-Apr-2013 At 1:17:43 PM pmonks

Message

On 30/04/2013 simey wrote:
>On 30/04/2013 pmonks wrote:
>>...and 5.11a more like 23.
>
>I've always thought of 23 being more like 11c. A simple way to convert
>Australian grades into US is to simply halve the Australian grade ie. 24
>is 5.12, 22 is 5.11, 20 is 5.10.... 12 is 5.6. It doesn't work so well
>on the higher grades however as 28 (not 26) is usually 5.13.

Yeah that's the rule of thumb I used after first moving here, but having now climbed here quite a bit I can say with some certainty that it's not perfectly accurate. I'd say that generally speaking 10c is about 21, 10d 22, and 11a 23, at least in California (which tends to have stiffer grades than some other states).

If anyone's in town and wants to double check my results I'd be happy to show them around some of the local crags!

[edit] Oh and of course 5.9 is all over the shop. I seem to recall a detailed post from Olbert on the topic a year or so ago.