|Hey Damo, I think I've got the orginal guidebook. Lucky me! It's called the interim guide. Nick, you should have asked around or gone shopping, 'cause the blue guidebook didn't seem to be that rare at that time. But I can understand it was probably more fun faffing your way around with a sense of mystery. And I'm not suprised the concept of a selfish tradclimber seems an enigma to you.
In attempt to get "back on topic", I reckon the most intersting quotes from the original guide are in the intro:
"... there is no reason to expect this crag will spared the frenzied attention other cliffs have suffered. But please don't do it to established routes. We hope others may find something of what we found here, and keep these cliffs as more (and less) than just another overbolted lycra gynasium"
Damo, I get the preference for a new route to be mixed, if it'll go, and you're right, bolts are a in your face change. What I meant by selfishness is the mindset that says "my way to climb is better, so stuff you". Bolts can do this, but so does trying to apply blanket rules. Either one "locks up" the "resource".
Ok, I know I've blabbed on enough, but lastly, I don't think Monty's new route turns the point into a gym. It could be an overbolted thugfest, but it could also be totally awesome and one of the most fun ways to climb an overhanging pumpy wall. I'll have to bribe someone into dragging me up the thing and find out. And I won't be wearing lycra.