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Speigals Overhang [North Jawbones, Cathedral Range 24-May-2011 At 11:40:14 PM rolsen1

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On 24/05/2011 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 24/05/2011 rolsen1 wrote:
>>I'm not a local so my views on the Cathedrals don't and shouldn't
>matter
>>but I've probably been there 30 times or so in the last 14 years, having
>>dragged way too many people up Speigals for their first multi-pitch climb.
>
>?
>I am intrigued by this attitude.
>
>So it is not worth your time (for example), to petition for access to
>North Head, or Balls Pyramid, or etc?
>

I didn't say that but I do also trust the local passionate communities eg Araps, Buff to get things generally right. If there is an email to send I have sent them before and I'll send them again :)

>... but you are local to somewhere right?
>So, if you were part of only a small numbers local climbing scene, you
>would be happy to see mass opinion (likely by non-climbers) overtake your
>wishes without consultation at a local level?
>

No, I'm not local to anywhere anymore :( and I was speaking about deferring to the local climbers not the local loggers at the Cathedral Range.

>What would you think is external influences type climbers came without
>consultation and developed your local cliffs with a different ethic to
>local wishes?
>
>(Note key word: consultation).
>
>I would argue that as a climber, and especially as one who uses the area
>(even if only occasionally), that your opinion counts for quite a bit more
>than you give it credit for!
>☺
>
>
>

If I was a local at Cathedrals of course I would voice an opinion, and would be part of the solution to solving the current problem there. It is just one guy that keeps cleaning Ben Cairn year after year, if/when he/she stops the crag will disappear unless someone else finds the passion.

I do think that those who visit a crag regularly and have a history with it, should have a greater say than those who seldom visit a crag. After all they are the ones who will be maintaining the tracks or replacing the bolts on the rap routes.

I also believe that most of our heated discussions around bolts at all of these crags will matter little in 50 or so years (possibly Araps will hold out a little longer) when most of us are gone and new "locals" have different ideas about safety and ethics.

And that doesn't bother me one bit.