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Topic Date User

Werribee Gorge Nobs 7-Jul-2008 At 12:58:29 PM ado_m

Message

Paul

I was at Werribbe Gorge when your group with the portaledge came in - I understand that this was Monash?

Agree using a single anchor (however bomber) is lazy, not something I would do. But, personally, I think taking a lead fall on some of the rusty bolts at Werrribee or leading anything on trad at that choss pit is significantly more dangerous than bringing up a second on a single belay pilon.

Next time your group is there, there are a few things that could be done better to smooth over things with the other climbers there:

- the leader has a quiet word to the people who are already there, to let them know which routes your group plans to work. If you're out with a mate for a quiet day out, having 15-20 people with 5 top rope setups and a crazy portaledge slung down SPQR is a bit grating. We moved to the side wall asap to get away from the circus.

- the guys setting up your anchors should be very careful both not to kick stones on people leading routes. I had a stone kicked down upon me when the guy setting up the top rope didn't even bother to look over and check if I was there.

- when someone is waiting to lead a route - and that's been made clear to the leader of your group - wait until they have finished and cleaned the route (ie. 30 minutes) before throwing down the top rope as a matter of courtesy.

There was a distinct bad vibe between your massive group and the other climbers on the cliff - no doubt from contributions both way. A bit of friendliness and conversation upfront would really smooth things over.

Adrian