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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

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Author
Guidebook corrections - update section.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
25/10/2004
1:40:56 PM
This should be in Crag & Route Beta section? ... (although I notice BA keeps an eye on Trip Reports) ...

BA 06/10/04 from Lack of Lurking Thread,
>It's the feedback from the users that gets the info updated. The NW >Vic, SW Vic, and >Eastern Vic guides are produced in lots of 300->400. This means they currently last about 2 years +/-.

>Version 1.10 of Eastern Vic is at the printers and is about 40 pages >thicker than the previous version, mainly due to new routes but >there has been a lot of access re-writing and a few more maps >added. Hopefully Paulie will read your answer and respond as well, >but I have done a cut and paste so it won't be forgotten for the next >edition. Anyone else aware of any errors/mistakes in any of the >guides? Maybe there should be another topic called guidebook >corrections so they'll all end up in the one spot, anyone in favour of >that?

A5 on 08/10/04
>Excellent idea BA re a dedicated guidebooks update section is >needed on Chockstone to make life easier for the scribes of history!

Until Mike starts up the required section?, I will post this 'topic' and kick it off with some update information.

Mt Buffalo.
(Disabled Lookout area).

The Cream Machine 14m M4

It is presently listed as M3, ... as is also 'Thanksgiving Crack' adjacent to it; but having done both, IMO Cream Machine is definitely a grade harder (at least), especially when done in ‘clean-aid’ style, as its crack is considerably ‘thinner’. (Even with ‘techo’ gear it's much harder to get pro to stick).

These two cracks are recommended for those of lesser experience who are aspiring to do any of the Nth Wall classics, as you will soon find out on them what you don't know about placements!

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

All contributions welcome for any style of climbing.

There you go ...
~ the Scribes will be appreciative of feedback, ... (& eventually the updated guidebook users) !

IdratherbeclimbingM9
17/12/2004
3:49:04 PM
bump ~> to get it back onto the front page ...

Paulie
26/12/2004
5:01:57 PM
BA, is it too late to re-write the access into McFarlanes Crag at Felltimber?? The local enviro group have put a track in cose to the base of both areas which coincidently eases access, plus the road in is no longer dirt, but a lovely black tar road...
BA
28/12/2004
11:49:46 AM
Short answer is "yes" Paulie. Version 1.10 went on sale a month or two ago. Rewrite it anyway and we can put it up on the VCC website and on Chockstone and incoporate it in the next version of the guide. At 464 pages East Vic is getting too big for it's boots, there has been some discussion about splitting it into two guides - Northeast and Southeast Victoria perhaps? The latest version has been stapled so there shouldn't be any problems with pages falling out.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
4/01/2005
5:51:33 PM
Another for the new edition of Mt Buffalo guidebook.

I led 'A3 Sportclimb' on the Mt Buffalo Gorge Nth Wall the other day, (01-01-05; ~ thanks climbau for the belay). It is actually the last pitch of 'Strange Ritual' put up by Stefan Eberhard in 1994 and has 3 stainless steel bolts.

All three bolts are the dyna-bolt style of thing with a threaded insert in a sleeve. None have hangers and the nuts easily undo by hand. It is a 10m runout (enhanced bat-hooking) to the top above the last bolt, ... which is disconcerting above a plug that moves inside its sheath! (until replaced?).

Beware also: The lower of the two fixed copperheads on it, is half shot, and there is a 'false' bolt hole which is 'cemented up' nearer the top ...

The pitch length is written up in the Boreham/Brereton Guide (page 67), as being 20m. This does not equate to the final pitch of Lord Gumtree being 27m (and which is located only a few metres to its right); ie pitch length should be 27m for last pitch of Strange Ritual; and should also be written up so as to include its alias of 'A3 (M4) sportclimb'.
Note: This would also have the effect of changing the overall length of Strange Ritual from 70m to 77m.

I doubt it receives many ascents and although not given an individual pitch grade; I will offer my opinion as to its grade also.
For my 2 cents worth it is M5 (A3+) on the condition that the final bolt is replaced with something more reliable*; ... but as it stands at present it is M6/A4, due to the 'groundfall' potential onto Wilkinson ledge below.

(*I have posted Safer Cliffs Vic. re the issue ...)

PS; Feel free to disagree climbau if you think I am off-base re grades here.



climbau
4/01/2005
7:02:17 PM
On 4/01/2005 M8iswhereitsat wrote:
>For my 2 cents worth it is M5 (A3+) on the condition that the final bolt
>is replaced with something more reliable*; ... but as it stands at present
>it is M6/A4, due to the 'groundfall' potential onto Wilkinson ledge below.

I reckon that even if the bolts are fixed/replaced so as to take a pull out load (highly probable on this route IMHO) I still think that falling high may result in a "ledge fall" or a rectal scouring from the shrub located on the ledge. Therefore I think the grade of M6 stands. The only thing that may make it M5+ would be if it turns out that the first copperhead can be replaced/substituted with a Hybrid Alien. This would take a fair deal of worry out of the ascent.
Just my 2c worth

Andrew

IdratherbeclimbingM9
4/01/2005
9:02:12 PM
On 4/01/2005 climbau wrote:
>(snip) Therefore I think the grade of M6 stands. The only thing
>that may make it M5+ would be (snip)

M5+ is an interesting concept, but I don't think Australia has enough Aid Climbers with sufficient (aka Jim Beyer, type) experience to delineate between 'M' grades that finely?

I think John Ewbank envisioned adding further grades for difficulty, similar in concept to his free grade system.
At present the M grades run from 1 to 8, and I personally see no impediment in running it further. In fact, I would rather see it run further than 'compressed' as has happened to the original USA A0 ->A5 system when they introduced 'New wave A0 to A5' * to accomodate harder climbing.

*They realised their folly when people like John Middendorf (#) introduced A6, A7, etc to cover the difficulties encountered on lengthy expedition type walls such as found in Pakistan, Patagonia, Baffin Island, etc.
# John Middendorf & Xaver Bongard did the 1st (?) A7? route when they put up 'The Grand Voyage', on Great Trango Tower in the Pakistan Karakoram.

climbau
5/01/2005
6:57:06 PM
On 4/01/2005 M8iswhereitsat wrote:
>M5+ is an interesting concept, but I don't think Australia has enough
>Aid Climbers with sufficient (aka Jim Beyer, type) experience to delineate
>between 'M' grades that finely?
Fair enough, maybe it should just be left as M6?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
18/01/2005
12:37:34 PM
I re-climbed 'A3 Sportroute' on 15/01/05, and took a shifter-spanner with me to tighten the existing bolts.
With this advantage and close inspection I found that the bolts are GOOD.

The guidebook should note that nil brackets are insitu; and that a spanner is required to ensure that any fitted while climbing it remain secure.

(The SCV thread has been updated also).


There are 9 messages in this topic.

 

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