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Topic Date User

Kim Carrigan BOOK 15-Aug-2017 At 12:29:16 AM ima.seriousyoungliza

Message

On 5/07/2017 ima.seriousyoungliza wrote:
>>> till a certain guest appearances happens soon ...

...that was an uncanny premonition ...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=9629l

'...Yeah, The Ring Route aka Serious Young Lizards really proved a bridge too far. The astounding thing was, that I'd bolted this route in 1982, long before anyone thought this would even be possible, which meant that I spent a long time learning the moves and developing the strength and fitness needed for a route like this. There was a complete lack of other routes of this difficulty from where this fitness could be gained. Despite being able to climb every move in my sleep, I could never quite bring it together. I still remember my best effort. I'd been shopping in Horsham for the weekly groceries and my fingers were already strained from carrying the shopping bags, but I thought I'll just pop up and give it a go. It had been drizzling, but because the wall was so steep, the route remained basically dry. First shot, I managed to redpoint straight to the last hold, but promptly slipped off mantling onto the wet slab above. That was it.....'

YEAH... ' THAT WAS IT , ' KIM !!!! .... YOU CLIMBED THE FIRST 31 IN AUSTRALIA ...AND ONE OF THE FIRST 31 z IN THE WORLD !!! .......GET THE FARK OVER IT !!!! ... YOU *DID* CLIMB SERIOUS YOUNG LIZARDS ( 31) !!! ....

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GRADE 38.......9b+ ..........LA DURA DURA .........2013....Ondra & Sharma....[ Australia...NOT YET ]

GRADE 37......9b...........CHILAM BALAM ...2003.......Bernabè Fernandez,....[ Australia...NOT YET ]

GRADE 36......9a+.........OPEN AIR .......1995........Alex Huber......[ Australia...NOT YET ]

GRADE 35 ......9a ..........ACTION DIRECT......1991........Wolfgang Gullich.......[ Australia 2013 ....Alex Megos....RETIRED EXTREMELY DANGEROUS ]

GRADE 34......8c+............HUBBLE.........1990.......Ben Moon......[ Austalia 2004...Chris Webb....WHITE LADDER ]

GRADE 33......8c............WALL STREET.......1987......Wolfgang Gullich......[ Autralia 1999 ..Garth Miller ...GREY AREA ]...

GRADE 32……8b+…….PUNKS IN THE GYM…...1985…...Scheel / Gullich / Moffat..........end of the Carrigan Years

GRADE 31……..SERIOUS YOUNG LIZARDS …1982 -1985…,KIM CARRIGAN

GRADE 30…….( the PRE-chipped version of ) ETHIOPIA……1984…KIM CARRIGAN

GRADE 29 ……..MASADA ….1984…KIM CARRIGAN... & CARRIGAN-sequence on INDIA (1982)…..KIM CARRIGAN

GRADE 28……COBWEBS….1981….Mark Moorhead

GRADE 27…...FOX ON A ROOF & PICKING WINNERS….1979….KIM CARRIGAN

GRADE 26…….PROCUL HAREM…..1978….KIM CARRIGAN

GRADE 25…….OSTLER…...1978…Chris Pieksta…

GRADE 24…...COUNTRY ROAD….1976…Claw & Taylor….

1975 ...Henry Barber visits Aus and consolidates Grade 23..and inspires the start of the Carrigan Years

GRADE 23 …..ALBATROSS…1974…Ian Lewis…..

GRADE 22......VALLHALLA 22M2 .....1972......Rick White

GRADE 21......JANICEPTS...21 MO…1966 ... .Ewbank

GRADE 20........THE MASTERPIECE......20 M4....Ewbank

GRADE 19 .......ZACHERIUS 19,M1 ..........1964....Ewbank

GRADE 18……..THE ETERNITY aka YORKSHIRE CRACK .....1965.........Ewbank

GRADE 17…… NW FACE FEDERATION PEAK ….1961.....Ohalleran etal…..& .....LIEBEN @ Warrumbungles…..1962.....Bryden Allen

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..(1)...SYL (31) KIM CARRIGAN 1982-1985

Make it onto the slab at the top ...and jump off (ima)

...(2)...Lord of the rings (31) STEFAN GLOWACZ 1986

Remarkably sustained face on thinner and thinner holds. If you fall off the slab you'll be in good company.(the crag )

Climb SYL then continue up the grade 25 slab above ( ima )

...(3)...THE Lord of the rings (31) NICK SUTTER 1990s

Start at the weakness down right of "Wackford Squeers" and go fairly much straight up.(the crag)

The direct start to SYL ( ima )

...(4)...Destroyer of the rings(32) LEE COSSEY 2015

Awesome sustained face climbing linking Lord of the rings and Zorlac the destroyer. (thecrag)

So the route starts as for Lord of the Rings and NOT THE Lord....I climbed the direct start (THE Lord...) when I did that route.
I don't think the climbing or holds are very nice and it is basically a height-dependent crux that
doesn't add bugger all to the route. Hence I chose to take the original Lord start when doing the link-up.( LeeC )

Description:
Start as for LOTR clipping the carrot and first 2 ring bolts. Immediately
before the 3rd ring climb leftward past a single SS fixed hanger towards
the subtle right-facing flake. Follow this directly into the crux of Zorlac
the Destroyer( LeeC ).

Re climbing across the slab.... the link-up heads leftward a few meters lower than the height of the slab.( LeeC )

Climb SYL to just below the 3rd bolt then head left as per LeeCz description (ima )

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..ADAM ONDRA hazzachat about the approach to GRADE 40........

www.climbing.com/people/adam-ondra-the-future-of-climbing/

...of which John Ewbank and Kim Carrigan will always be the main men in relation to that in the Australian climbing con text ....

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