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Topic Date User
TR (T)radical Testpieces: Grasshopper & Supercrack 13-Jul-2017 At 9:40:11 PM PThomson
Heya Mikl!

Yep. Just off the belay is a good break (about 1m left of the next section of crack) for Red and Green cams. There is another bit of gear (yellow cam) in a wet and muddy polished dish (about 30cm higher and more "on the line" than the previous gear) but it's "average".

When you're standing on this polished dish (after the first few moves of the crux) there is a bomber wire right in front of you, but you're fingers are in that finger-slot, and without pre-placing its very hard to place (you have to take your fingers out of the slot to place it). When Tom-o ticked it, he DID manage to place it, but... um... it's Tom-o. (In Simon's photos of you, I notice that *you* DIDN'T place it...) =)

Any way, from there you go into the "crux of the crux", at which point you move your feet above 1.5m above the polished dish (average gear), and about 1.8m above the bomber gear in the break you're talking about. You then do the main crux move (a bit of a lob to the finger jug and stonker gear) at which point my feet are about 2m above the average gear, and further above the good gear. So, throughout this section: from the polished dish (average gear) to the finger jug (stonker gear) is about 4m.

Not a big fall in itself by any means... buuuuut: considering the two-tiered ledgy slab you've just climbed on the lower section, any fall from those moves (even without a ludicrously tight belay) will definitely glance the slab. Or -as in my buddy's situation- caught it badly when he glanced the ledge itself during the fall.


- Frothy

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