Goto Chockstone Home

  Tech Tips

      Sponsored By

Chockstone Photography
Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Topic Date User
TR: Alive in a Bitter Sea (Katoomba Cliifs) 8-Dec-2016 At 8:47:23 PM simey
On 7/12/2016 Macciza wrote:
>Better then it being low-jacked into some 'bland consumer classic clip-up'...
>And like most of Warwicks route it was probably inspected/rehearsed far
>less then most people imagine...

I doubt any route going up that wall is going to be a bland experience. And the fact that Warwick might not have inspected or rehearsed the route much doesn't remove the fact that he did inspect it from a rap rope. That alone is a huge advantage over anyone going ground-up (which is normally what you do when you go climbing).

>Any faffing/inspection/rehearsal is as much a reflection on the climber
>as it is the climb. Perhaps you would like to set us all straight by going
>ground up on it yourself?? I just reckon that if you complain about all
>that stuff but are unwilling to lead it in your preferred fashion then
>it detracts from your argument. And does it really matter how many people
>have climbed it??

The wall is really inspiring, but the route in its current fashion has never interested me. Your argument makes no sense that I should lead it ground-up. It sounds like a shithouse ground-up lead and that is my whole argument.

The fact that Warwick was lucky enough to live in era when he could rap an awesome wall directly below Katoomba and put up a mega route at a relatively modest grade of 25 means that to have created an unappealing route is a crime! The lack of attention it has received is testament to that. And it is not as though his lead was all that amazing. He wasn't onsighting into the unknown. It is a rap inspected and rehearsed, poorly equipped, run-out grade 25. There are no shortage of those routes from the 80s!

If I wanted to play the same game I could have got away with placing only three or four bolts on the second pitch of the Totem Pole. I had it all sussed on rap. I placed ten bolts because I was thinking more about the people climbing it after me. I wasn't interested in creating my own little ego trip. As it stands the climbing is great, the position is great, the route is onsightable and it still retains plenty of excitement. Having a few more bolts doesn't automatically turn a climb into a 'bland consumer classic clip-up'.

Warwick hasn't achieved one thing or another. He ultimately had to rap it and he ultimately had to place bolts. It is just a mess of a route up an awesome wall. The fact that a climber of Paul's calibre had to do that much fcuking around before he was even prepared to lead it is a joke.

There are 81 replies to this topic.


Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Landscape Photos Australia

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.

Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | High Country Mountain Huts | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints