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OZYMINDIAS ORIGINAL - An intro to aid 24-Feb-2016 At 11:20:15 PM Jok

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DAY 4 - WEDNEDSAY:
Halfway up Mt Buffalo the car suddenly burst though the clouds into sunshine, the first we have seen since landing in Melbourne, it was 0630h, and we had left Mt Beauty an hour and fifteen minutes ago. As Georgie and I walked back down the Southside track the view was breathtaking, the endless rolling clouds below, the sun on the North wall, and the blue haul bag glistening at the second belay. I have never seen anything like it before, we hiked quickly, excited to get back on the wall, refreshed and full of energy.

(A beautiful day for climbing)

(The lonely pig)

With only one set of jumars between us the jugging could have been easier, I had the left and a Gri-Gri, Georgie had the right and a Petzel Microcender. Due to the devices used only one of use could be on the rope at a time, and the pack was tied to the rope end for hauling. Both of us now at the belay we set up a simple 1:1 haul, Georgie was pulling down and I am pulling up using my jumar. The bag is half way up now "how bout a quick drink break?" I ask, Georgie concurs. I reach up and unclip my bottle from the cordellette unscrewing the lid whilst curiously watching my jumar slide rapidly down the rope to collide with the pack. "Damn it, I forgot about that, good thing I locked it with a crab" I said nonchalantly. Drink now break over we finished the haul, secured the pack to the haul cluster and I prepared for my lead.

Pitch 3:
Moving up the thin crack as quickly as possible I am using every dodgy bolt head and old piton I come across without much thought in order to make the next belay on time. As I step up onto a ledge passing a wobbly piton I place my hand in the corner to steady myself, a large Huntsman spider races out of a pocket and runs across my hand. The surprise nearly causes me to loose balance, 'we better not have to deal with them on every pitch' I thought hopefully.

As I close upon where the belay should be, looking about; I fail to find much evidence except for an old sling around a tree base no way I'm using that, might as well keep following the crack then I decided. Another meter up the crack brings me to a suspicious looking flake; I wrap it with my knuckles and am returned with a disconcerting hollow noise. 'It might be ok for a body weight placement' I thought, reaching for a cam hook. I place the hook and gingerly test it, the whole flake moves, 'bugger that, what else is around?' not a lot I realised. With a good piece not far below I decide to run out the remaining few meters to big grassy by reefing on weed clusters and dirt.

"LINE FIXED!" I shout as loud as possible, I hear my own voice echo twice off the far wall of the gorge, yet I hear no reply from Georgie. 'Good thing we practiced for this scenario' I thought as I connected the haul system and started reefing through slack. I began hauling using 2:1 and walking laps up and down the large ledge, I felt the bag swing out, before long it stopped moving. 'Damn, it’s stuck already' I thought. Giving myself more leash and leaning right out over the edge I can see the bag under a roof, and I can see Georgie coming up the crack. There is no way he can get to it from there, so not much to do but wait.

(Georgie arriving at BG)

Georgie arrived quickly and rappelled back down to assist the pig, shortly after we had the bag docked and were eating lunch. "The weather report has gone from storms to possible showers now" I tell Georgie, "we don't need to bother with building a shelter anymore". It is now 1400h and Georgie is ready to lead pitch 5.

Pitch 5:
Georgie started his lead at 1400h, we are 2 hours behind schedule but still have plenty of light left. I was sitting down on a rock, relaxing when I thought I a faint voice quickly accompanied by the thump of something landing off to my right. I walk over to see one of my No.1 nuts laying in the ledge, "stop dropping me gear" I shout up as I clip the nut to the followers rack.

(A solid Kong nut placement)

(Georgie leading pitch 5)

As I started jumaring the sky was darkening and the wind increasing, I had made it to a sharp rooflet. With the haul bag still a little way below me I had no choice but to wait so I could help it over the roof. As I was waiting, the wind got really strong and we could see a storm front coming our way with speed. The rain started as I got the bag past the roof, I was still wearing my jacket but Georgie had his packed away. Luckily the storm was quick, passing in just 20 minutes. We had finished resetting the racks and were ready for the 6th pitch by 1700h.

(Cleaning the 5th pitch)

After talking over our options we decided even though we can get another pitch in today it is best we don't, the next belay is an unknown and Big Grassy is just below us and a comfortable place to stay the night. We lowered the bags back down to the big ledge, and rappelled down to set up the bivvy. I had the ledge hanging off the left wall and Georgie set up a hammock across the corner above my ledge

(The bivvy)

We discussed tomorrows plan over dinner and decided that Georgie should do pitch 6 as it is easier, then I'll do the harder pitches 7 and 8 to make up time, from there he can do 9 and 10 in the chimneys. We will still top out tomorrow but worst case there is enough food and water for another night on the wall.