Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Arapiles	The Organ Pipes	(General)	Organ Pipes Gully	[ Arapiles Guide \| Arapiles Images ]

Topic Date User

Iron Void - some beta please 20-May-2009 At 3:15:37 PM crazyjohn

Message

Warning- Actual beta for the climb Iron Void coming from someone who has actually climbed it.... May be off topic.

Did it twice 4 years ago and belayed grug on it yesterday. Scarry by most peoples standards. Bomber #1 walnut off block on left to start. Good holds on right side then jug on left up to good holds. Purple camalot at horizontal break. Another bomber #6 walnut. Traverse up and left easily. You are aiming for thin crack by blasted rock directly below really chalked up circular looking hold. A 0 walnut (REAL SMALL) goes in the crack. It is as good as this piece of gear can get in the world. You can also get in a Yellow Metolius Tri-Cam at traverse in a very unlikely vertical crack. Impossible to desribe the placement. The 0 wire is good. Then do the crux. Get circle chalked hold with L hand high step up with sidepulls for right hand. I did a foot swap from L to R on the only other good foothold.to go back L to the jug. Plenty of gear - #4-#7 walnuts. Then keep motoring left on decent holds.

wow!